Check Bowtie Tie
At wedding, what shirt for 1. Morning coat & 2. Regular tuxedo? Also other tips requested...?
As the groom, I'll wear a cutaway. I want to wear the conventional regular tie. NOT an ascot or bowtie. So I'm curious as to what kind of shirts to wear with it. Should it be pleated, or plain? Regular dress shirt?
For the groomsmen, they'll wear a regular tuxedo, with regular long ties as well, but no vests. What kind of shirts do they need?
Another question is to wether a shirt pocket for the groomsmen must be white or wether it can be the color of the tie/bridesmaids dresses? Can the groom in a morning coat have a colored shirt pocket?
Lastly, I'd like to check wether it's bad form to 1. Wear a colored vest/tie with a morning coat cutaway and 2. The charcoal vs. black for morning coats. Is the grey dark enough to pass for black?
Sadly, rental employees know nothing of formalwear beyond company policy, which reflects the whim of advertisers rather than classic taste. You're on your own.
The correct shirt for morning dress is most often a plain white French-cuffed shirt, preferably with a spread collar. (There's also some precedent for contrast-collar shirts, but let's keep this simple.)
Do not, I repeat, do not attempt to mix a morning coat (day formalwear) with tuxedos (evening semi-formalwear.) I cannot emphasize this enough. This will succeed in making either you or your groomsmen look like a butler. If this is a day wedding, all the men should be in morning coats. If evening, all tuxedos (with black bow ties, not long ties.)
A colored pocket square can be done well, though it should not match the tie exactly. I would stick with white, personally.
Color is mostly out with morning dress. The tie should certainly never match the vest. (The tie should be silver/black checked, the vest should be light grey.) Groomsmen and bridesmaids in matching colors are the classic sign of a poorly-dressed wedding. (The rental industry only pushes it for financial purposes.)
Charcoal is fine for a morning coat, though whether it will look black will depend both on lighting and on the shade of the fabric. There's also a shade called Oxford grey, which is nearly black.
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