Self Tie Cufflinks
The dress shirt is one of the most underutilized accessories in a mans wardrobe. Many take it for granted because of the fact, that for the most part it stays covered underneath the jacket. Another contributing factor maybe, that most do not know what kind of dress shirts fit them best. In this article we want to put a focus on the collar as this is the most visible part of the shirt and one of the main factors that really influences how the entire outfit is viewed.
One of the things about the dress shirt collar that most people miss is that there is an optimal spread for ones face shape. Matching the appropriate shape and size collar can slim you up, be considerably more comfortable and give a much more polished look. When this is matched up with the right tie knot the difference will be so pronounced you will ask your self why you didn't think to do this sooner.
Here are a few ground rules the are universal to all face shapes:
- Use the right size-If you feel like its choking you its too small, If after you have tied the tie and there is visible buckling anywhere on the collar it is too big. This is the most difficult part of the exercise as dress shirt collars are set half an inch apart and require a pretty exacting fit. This is one area where you can not compromise.
- Use some brass collar stays- These can be purchased at any fine department store and they can really be your first line of defense against saggy or sloppy collars. Most dress shirts will come with a pair of plastic stays, while these work, they are easily bent and after a while end up making the collar look sloppier. Aside form keeping the collar flat, brass stays also help weigh the collar down giving a nice pressed look.
- Keep them clean- Ring around the collars are visible from the outside. A great cleaner will get rid of these, not to mention press the shirt to perfection. I am under the opinion that a $1.25-$1.50 is worth it to not have to clean and press your shirts yourself.
For off the rack shirts there are basically three different collar spreads- Narrow, Standard, and Wide. If you are very picky it might make sense to look into
custom shirts
where there are up to 20+ different collars. The general rule of thumb is that the rounder the face the narrower the spread. Its quite funny to see a guy with a round face wearing spread collar shirts, it looks like a golf ball on a tee. He should be looking for a narrow spread collar shirt. Contrasting the spread to your face shape is what gives a slimmed up illusion, while matching it will do the reverse.
Another thing to consider is your neck height. If you have a short neck look for collars that have a shorter back and smaller points to balance it out. Always remember that you are going for the "half an inch of shirt sticking out of your jacket rule" so even if you do have a longer neck you do not want a collar that goes too high. This is the area where many people mistake the discomfort they feel as being the wrong size. The wrong collar height will rub you just below the ears giving the illusion that it is too tight, when in fact its just too tall.
Pair the right collar with the right tie knot and the look will be complete.The rule of thumb is the same as the collar, the rounder the face the narrower the knot, the taller the collar the wider the tie itself.
A nice dress shirt and tie can dress up any suit. Whether you like to wear off the rack rack versions or are a connoisseur of bespoke custom suits, the right collar shape and tie knot will be a make or break detail that shouldn't be looked over.
Chris Vance is the senior trends and fashion spotter for Requisite clothing, a custom clothing design house specializing in custom suits, custom shirts, custom tuxedos and sports wear for both men and women.
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