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The Return of Tailored Suits
It's been long said that when one dresses well he comes across more confident and capable and now the evidence is clear as day. As the economy turned for the worse and as it continues to stagnate, more and more men are finding it necessary to get out of the business casual look and return to the power suit, though the version of the suits that are making their appearance are far from the big shouldered V shaped eighties power suit, or the slouchy and baggy nineties version. The suit making its way to the offices and board rooms all over corporate America are trim and fitted and classically tailored in the modern fashion favored by the British Savile Row tailors in the 50's. yes it does seem like an oxymoron, classic yet modern, but that is exactly the best way to describe the look. Think the old Glamor of Hollywood, from Movies such as Casablanca, North by north west, An affair to remember...Bogart, Grant... Fashions have come and go but their modern cut suits are still classic as ever.
Here are the top 3 things you should know to help create the ideal look:
1. Choose Modern Suit Cuts with Classic Details:
Not all suits are created equal. One thing you will find is that in general the better the craftsmanship in a suit the more classic the details. Fashion forward details can be found in lesser crafted suits for one simple reason: The fashion will fade and the suit will be discarded, no need to have well made suit that will be thrown away in a few seasons. Instead look for suits with a more modern cut - tapered waist jacket, one or two vents, little to no padding, no pleats in the pants- paired with classic details - 3" wide lapels, two buttons, classic dark fabrics (flannel, subtle pinstripes, bold chalk stripes) etc. This way you will channel Thomas Crown rather than Zoolander.
For off the rack suits, brands such as Hickey (the modern version of Hickey Freeman), Isaia, Paul Smith, Giorgio Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna are some of the best examples, though they can be a little on the pricey side.
A great option for those looking for just the right cut and details would be to find a tailor that specializes in more modern custom suits. This way you can get the exact details and cut that suits you best (no pun intended), and most will be surprised to see that today's custom suits are actually competitive with other the prices of even entry level luxury off the rack brands.
2. Pair the suit with the appropriate accessories
The only thing worse than when some one mixes a well tailored suit with mis- matched (design wise) accessories, is when some one matches it with bad accessories. Either way its wrong. So when pairing your new tailored slim cut suits choose your ties, shoes and shirts accordingly. If you have a 3" wide lapel, pair it with a 3" wide tie and a 3" wide shirt collar. If you have "drain pipe" straight leg British style pants, pair it with a British type shoe, one with a welt and blunted point toe box. Mis-matching cuts and design would be like walking out with an Adidas jacket, Nike hat and Reebok shoes, it just looks tacky.
3. Create a signature quirk
After you put the thing together add a signature detail quirk, that is both memorable and fits your personality. For example, If you are a neat freak, always pair your ties with a tie bar. If you are out going try bright colored socks.
Having a signature quirk adds a little bit more dimension to your look and lets other people know that you pay attention to the smallest detail.
Chris Vance is the senior trends and fashion spotter for Requisite clothing, a custom clothing design house specializing in custom suits, custom shirts, custom tuxedos and sports wear for both men and women.
http://www.requisiteclothing.com
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