Antonio Neck
The gateway arch with La Pigna (The Pine Cone) suspended from its center, overlooking Atwells Avenue, greets visitors from near and far. This traditional Italian symbol of welcome, abundance, and quality has become synonymous with Federal Hill, one of Providence's neighborhoods best known for its Italian-American community and predominant restaurants, wine, and food specialty shops. During the first two decades of the 20th century, an influx of Italian-Americans immigrated into the area, making it the city's informal "Little Italy." During the 34-year period from 1898 to 1932, more than 54,000 Italian immigrants arrived at the port of Providence with the majority of them settling on Federal Hill, a 300 acre land mass that stands high above Rhode Island's capital city.
Though the population of Federal Hill is more diverse today, it still remains a traditional center for the city's Italian-American community. Providence's annual Columbus Day parade marches along Atwells Avenue. Let's pick up the pace and loosen our belt for a tour of wine and food specialty shops within walking distance along and off of Atwells Avenue.
Scialo Bros. Bakery (257 Atwells Avenue): In 1916, when Luigi Scialo and his brother arrived from the Italian province of Pomigliano d'Arco, they established the bakery in the heart of an Italian neighborhood. In the 1920's Luigi became the sole proprietor and ran the business with the help of his family for the next seven decades until his death in 1993 at the age of 103. Since 1993, the Scialo Bakery tradition has been carried on by Luigi's daughters, Lois (Scialo) Ellis and Carol (Scialo) Gaeta. All products are made from scratch on the premises in brick ovens that date back to the 1920's. They do not buy any frozen or pre-prepared breads or desserts.
Gasbarro's Wines (361 Atwells Avenue): Established in 1898 by Antonio Gasbarro as Gasbarro's Liquors on Knight Street in the capital city, he moved the operation down the road to 481 Atwells Avenue where it prevailed for 70 years. During Prohibition, Gasbarro's was a malt and hop merchant as well as a retailer of wine making equipment. Progressing from selling whiskey and bourbon out of the barrel and a half dozen homemade wines, today the store has 2,300 products to sell, including 1,800 different brands of wine. Complimenting their Italian wine selection of over 900 labels, more than 450 Californian wines are featured, constituting over 80 % of their sales. A highway relocation project in 1973 forced the store to move a few blocks to its present location. Now In its fourth generation of proprietors, since 2009, the store front includes a new tasting area. The "Table for Ten" experience provides a private setting for wine education after store hours, and is customized to fit tastes and budget.
Antonelli's Poultry (62 De Pasquale Avenue) - The only store that kills and processes poultry while the customer waits, this 148-year old butcher shop is not for the squeamish. "Fresh" is the operative word when it comes to eggs, rabbits, and fowl - chickens, ducks, partridges, and geese. You can go into the back room and check out the live rabbits in their cages or poultry in their coops. Should you choose a bird for slaughter, the butchers will make a quick slice through the neck, drain the blood, and steep it in hot water, and pluck while you take a gander.
Costantino's Venda Ravioli (265 Atwells Avenue) - Offering more than 150 kinds of fresh and frozen pasta in the Old World tradition since the 1930s: jumbo stuffed shells, manicotti, tri-colored egg noodles, tortellini, tortelloni, agnolotti, angel hair and lobster ravioli; Italian meats and gourmet food too! Originally a tiny storefront, Venda Ravioli was purchased in 1972 by Alan Costantino. Over the past three decades, the operation has quadrupled in size, necessitating a move to its current location in 2001, and flourishing as one of the most respected Italian food emporiums in the Northeast. The glassed-in, state-of-the-art kitchen with its marble counter affords guests a glimpse of Chef Salvatore Cefaliello and his staff in action. The cafe offers 30 seats inside, 6 at the espresso bar, and 40 outdoors during warm weather. Their website features an on-line store.
Tony's Colonial Market (311 Atwells Avenue) - Since 1952, Tony's has provided discriminate shoppers with the finest imported and domestic Italian foods. Quality meats and cheeses, imported olive oils and vinegars, gourmet pasta products, antipasti, porcini mushrooms, Italian candies and confections, and freshly prepared foods can be purchased at their market or on-line. A cheesy fact - Tony's accepted delivery of a 610-lb. provolone in October 2000!
Pastiche (92 Spruce Street) - In 1983, Eileen Collins and Brandt Heckert started making desserts for local restaurants. Their dedication to "provide quality and consistency" is the heart and soul of their small shop. All desserts are made "in house" from scratch which you can nibble inside the intimate European style café. The building was erected in 1875 and seats 40 people. I can attest to the interior's cramped quarters as it's usually packed for desserts to go by the slice or whole. Then there are those of us who enjoy our desserts with a cup of tea or cappuccino by the warmth of the fireplace.
A digital or virtual tour of wine and food specialty shops along Atwells Avenue in the Federal Hill district of Providence is a cultural and culinary experience worth expanding your horizon and waistline. From points north of RI, take Route 95 South to Exit 21 (Atwells Avenue). From points south of RI, take Route 95 North to Exit 21 (Broadway). At the second light, take a left over the bridge on Atwells Avenue. A vast assortment of fine wines, breads, pastries, gourmet foods, meats, candies, confections, and decadent desserts is one mangiare e bere in abbondanza smothered with hospitality.
Eva Pasco - Author
UNDERLYING NOTES (238 pgs)
A Midlife Journey of Self-Discovery: Winding past Rhode Island's affluent coastal communities, prominent landmarks, cherished institutions, and olive oil spills of the underworld.
FREE EXCERPT (Chapters 1-3)/Convenient Ordering: eBook or Print
http://www.booklocker.com/books/4431.html
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